ESKANOUIL'
24Sep/121052

Namaste (bis) Nepal !

Le mercredi 30 mai 2012, c’est sans difficulté que nous nous affalons sans remords sur le lit de notre petite chambre à la lueur des bougies fournies par la propriété. On s’habitue déjà aux pannes d’électricité népalaises. Las de nos derniers jours de voyage, nous ne tardons pas à s’effondrer dans les bras de Morphée.

Malheureusement, la bonne nuit de sommeil  sera pour la prochaine fois ; la chaleur, les moustiques et la fatigue due à notre dernière bataille indienne nous travaillent, nous nous réveillons plus fatigués que la veille et profitons d’une journée à ne rien faire.

Nous passons quelques jours à Katmandou, tout d’abord pour se renseigner à propos de notre future traversée du Tibet prévue d’ici un mois. Après plusieurs recherches, nous nous rendons compte que cette partie sera pour nous quasiment impossible : depuis peu, les autorités chinoises ne délivrent le permis que si le groupe est constitué de 5 personnes de la même nationalité ; de plus, le prix de la traversée de 7 jours s’élève à environ 500 euros par personne ; et pour couronner le tout, le Tibet est fermé depuis deux jours car trop de cas d’immolations ont été enregistrés ces dernières semaines, chez les moines comme chez les civiles.

Nous décidons donc après réflexion d’abandonner l’idée de rejoindre la Chine par le Tibet pour ensuite rejoindre le Kazaksthan.  Nous nous faisons rembourser une partie de notre billet Astana-Kiev réservé quelques semaines auparavant et l’échangeons contre un billet Katmandou-Belgrade, avec escale à Delhi puis Moscou. Nous reviendrons !

Nous profitons donc de notre séjour à Katmandou pour faire un tour au Bureau de l’immigration pour prolonger nos visas jusqu’au 22 juillet.

Nous nous baladons dans les rues, buvons des tchais dans notre petit bar favori sur une petite place animée où les jeunes et les moins jeunes viennent s’essayer au football, observons ces nombreux magasins à touristes identiques, nous émerveillons devant les stands de tissus colorés à perte de vue (ok, Marjo s’émerveille), flânons dans les marchés puis, finalement, réussissons à joindre Kalu.

Kalu est un ami de Titouan, un ami de Marseille, qui a passé 4 mois au Népal l’an passé.

Le 6 mai, nous sortons du centre de la ville en bus, après un petit passage à la poste pour envoyer quelques babioles. De là, nous tendons le pouce et sommes vite pris en stop par deux frères dans leur camion Tata coloré et décoré. Finalement, sans trop comprendre, les deux acolytes disparaissent et deux autres jeunes hommes prennent leur place dans le camion. Ils nous amènent jusqu'à Mugling, à peu près à mi chemin entre Katmandou et Pokhara.

Le lendemain, à Pokhara, c’est sous une pluie battante que nos trois compagnons de route du jour nous font descendre de leur camion rempli de bouteilles de gaz. Après des aux-revoir chantants, K-way sur la tête, sacs couverts et pieds nus, nous courrons en direction de « Lake side », la partie de la ville se trouvant, comme son nom l’indique, au bord du lac de Phewa. La pluie trop forte, nous nous arrêtons chez un couple de petits vieux avec qui nous échangerons de beaux regards.

Nous rencontrons finalement Kalu, et Suman, les deux amis de Titouan, autour d’une bière ou d’un whisky dans le bar du grand frère de Kalu. Petite voix, cheveux hirsutes, bière montée à la tête, notre nouvel ami nous explique calmement qu’il a prévu de partir le lendemain en trek pour finir le mémorial commencé pour son grand-père, à 3800m d’altitude. Enfait, il attendait que nous arrivions à Pokhara pour partir et nous propose donc de l’accompagner dès le lendemain, pour environ une semaine.

Après discussions, nous partons le lendemain matin en fin de matinée pour aller rejoindre Kalu vers chez lui ; sans se presser, on comprend vite qu’avec Kalu, il faut prendre son temps. Au lieu de se rejoindre à 9 heures comme prévu la veille, nous nous rejoignons vers 14 heures.

Jeep chargée, un vélo sur le toit, les provisions et les sacs dans le coffre, Kalu nous indique de nous asseoir à l’avant ; lui et ses « brothers » iront sur le toit … jusqu’à ce qu’il se mette à pleuvoir . Pendant que certains vont s’entasser dans le pick up bâché et plein de bagages, d’autres restent sur le toit et se couvrent à l’aide d’une vieille bâche attrapée dans la jeep.

La pluie, ça engendre la boue, le 4X4 ne passe pas de partout mais nous franchissons les barrières à l’aide d’un gros sac de silure. Le conducteur passera deux bonnes heures à la pause thé pour démonter et remonter les deux roues avant ; nous repartons dans la nuit et arrivons à Keylan, le premier village, où nous sommes accueillis par des amies (« sisters ») de Kalu et un bon repas. Nous dormons chez des gens du village qui refusent toute participation financière, pendant que Kalu et les brothers dorment dans une espèce de dortoir en haut du village.

Le lendemain matin, la dame de la maison vient nous réveiller vers 6 heures et nous offre un thé au lait. Nous nous réveillons difficilement, nous pensions dormir un peu… On se balade dans le joli village, bafouillons quelques mots aux petits vieux intrigués (qui nous demandent tous si nous avons déjà mangé).

Vers 12 heures, nous partons de Keylan après un Dhaal Baat (équivalent népalais du Tha li indien : riz, soupe de lentilles, légumes préparés, parfois accompagnés de chapatis). Une heure de marche seulement pour rejoindre Sikles, le village où Didi (= grande sœur en népalais), la femme d’un ami de Kalu, nous accueille. Nous dormons là ce soir.

On nous explique qu’une dizaine d’hommes et de femmes (et nous l’apprendrons plus tard d’enfants), dont Home, le mari de Didi, passent, à cette saison là (soit après la fonte des neiges), deux mois là où nous allons, à 3800m d’altitude, pour faire la pêche au Yarsagumba.

Ce champignon pousse dans les contreforts de l’Himalaya à des altitudes pouvant atteindre 5000 mètres.

Le Yarsagumba est le résultat d’une combinaison  entre un insecte et un champignon. Au départ, les spores du Yarsagumba se fixent sur la tête des chenilles qui vivent dans les alpages himalayens. Puis, progressivement, le champignon pénètre plus profondément dans le corps de la chenille envahissant son organisme. A la mort de l’insecte, le champignon continue de se développer et prend l’aspect d’une tige noire. Cette tige noire en forme de doigt ne mesure que quelques centimètres. C’est cette partie aérienne du Yarsagumba, appelé le carpophore, qui est récolté et utilisé dans la médecine traditionnelle tibétaine et chinoise. Le Yarsagumba ne se récolte qu’une seule fois par an et n’est visible que pendant les quelques semaines que durent le printemps.

Le 11 juin, c’est seulement vers midi que nous décollons, sans grand-chose dans le ventre et en s’étant levés vers 7 heures pour partir tôt. On l’a compris, il ne faut pas se presser, il ne faut pas être pressé non plus !

L’équipe est composée de Kalu et ses brothers : Ashish, Iralal, Baskot et son neveu, ainsi que le frère de Home, de Didi et son jeune fils Amir qui vont rejoindre leur mari et père là haut.

La faim ne nous aide pas mais nous montons tant bien que mal les escaliers de pierre installés pour monter le plus vite possible sur le flanc pentu de la montagne. Ce jour-là, nous marchons environ cinq heures rythmées par quelques « poses gouter » agrémentées de noodles sèches écrasées et de biscuits, et arrivons à notre campement du soir, une maison construite par des gens du coin pour les randonneurs : deux pièces, deux emplacements pour le feu, un parquet pour dormir. En se baladant autour, nous apercevons les sommets enneigés du massif de l’Annapurna. Demain, nous les verrons de plus près…

Le lendemain, la marche est plus facile car le nombre de marches est moins élevé. Le problème de cette période de moussons qui débute, c’est que de nombreuses « lids », sortes de petits vers, viennent se coller aux chaussures puis remonter jusqu’au chevilles pour sucer le sang des randonneurs aventuriers.

Vers 11 heures, nous avons la bonne surprise de rencontrer Home, descendu de là haut pour nous amener le déjeuner ; de sa corbeille en bambou qu’il porte à son front, il sort une grosse casserole de riz, un bocal de légumes cuisinés et un de « dhaal », des assiettes, des tasses et une théière. Il réchauffe le tout au feu de bois et la pause non attendue nous fait le plus grand bien, à tous.

Arrivés à Kuri, nous ne voyons rien à cause du brouillard qui vient s’installer là dès le matin en cette période de moussons. Une petite maison a été construite ici aussi, une grande pièce séparée en deux par une tente posée là par les chasseurs de Yarsagumba ; de chaque côté, un coin pour le feu.

Le lendemain matin, nous nous réveillons tôt dans la tente et Home nous apporte le thé à domicile. Nous émergeons et montons au mémorial du grand-père de Kalu pour observer, bouche bée, la vue qui s’offre à nous.

Nous restons deux jours à Kuri, nous essayons sans succès de trouver le fameux yarsagumba, jouons aux dés, nous baladons, regardons, discutons, buvons du thé, mangeons des dhaal baat, nous lavons dans la rivière glacée et inaugurons le mémorial du grand-père de Kalu au roxi (alcool local) à 7 heures du matin, une fois la plaque gravée installée.

Nous faisons la rencontre du Grand-père, ou « baiji », qui vit dans une grotte dans les montagnes après avoir tragiquement perdu femme et enfants il y a plusieurs années. Il connait toutes les plantes, installe des pièges pour chasser des bestiaux et nous concocte au feu de bois de délicieux repas.

Le 15, nous repartons un peu sans s’y attendre après deux journées passées là-haut ; Kalu est malade et veut redescendre. Les genoux de Marjo la font (beaucoup) souffrir sur la descente, d’autant plus que Kalu et ses acolytes dévalent les marches si vite !

Les aux-revoirs avec Home et Didi sont émouvants, ils nous invitent à retourner les voir à leur retour de la chasse au yarsagumba, d’ici deux ou trois semaines. Mais Sikles, lors de la mousson, est difficilement accessible.

Arrivés à Sikles, 7 heures plus tard, Seb a les chaussettes en sang à cause des nombreuses lids repues cachées dans ses chaussettes. Après un bon dhaal baat, nous nous endormons, épuisés, dans les lits de la guest house d’une amie de Kalu.

Le lendemain, la journée de repos est bien méritée puisque c’est avec difficulté qu’on arrive à se déplacer : nos genoux et les courbatures dans les cuisses et les mollets nous font souffrir !

Le 17 juin, nous quittons Sikles tôt le matin et marchons sous une fine pluie pour rejoindre la jeep, à environ une heure de marche. Nos jambes ne sont pas encore en super forme, nous y allons doucement, mais surement, pendant que Kalu et ses acolytes foncent devant.

A la première pause mécanique du 4x4, nous nous rendons compte qu’entre le toit, le pick-up et l’arrière du véhicule, nous sommes 24 à voyager dans cette même jeep ! Mais le chauffeur demande alors que 5 attendent le prochain véhicule… Nous repartons, nous sommes 8 + un chien à l’arrière du pick up et ça secoue (et ça pue).

* ICI, LES PHOTOS *

Commentaires (1052) Trackbacks (0)
  1. Bravo pour le texte et les photos.

    Je suis emballé par leur qualité, et pour moi, voir ces photos de très haute montagne que vous avez côtoyées, c’est émouvant!

    A voir maintenant la fin: ce sera peut être bien aussi de mettre quelques chose sur votre retour à Lyon et vos projets..

    Dominique

  2. Coucou,
    Je n’imaginais pas tout ce qu’on peut faire avec des sacs de silures 😉
    Encore du courage dans cet épisode et du grand air ! chapeau à vous.
    Bise

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