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Les aventures de Zaza de l’Himalaya

BONJOUR, MOI C’EST ZAZA, ou Comment rendre une moto heureuse.

Hier, on a vu arriver dans la matinée un jeune couple de français, en quête d’une moto à louer pour une quinzaine de jours pour aller se balader dans la région. Mon propriétaire m’a proposée, de toutes façons, y’avait que moi et Toto de disponibles. Ils ont un peu tiré la tronche en voyant ma couleur grisâtre, mais une fois essayée je les ai convaincu : tant pis pour la belle couleur rêvée pour se la péter sur les photos, je ferais leur affaire.

Ils ont alors dit, après quelques négociations : « on vient la chercher demain », ce qui a laissé à mon propriétaire assez de temps pour me pomponner, un peu, et m’installer, à leur demande, un porte bagage équipé de tendeurs à l’arrière et deux rétroviseurs.

Ce samedi 5 mai, dans la matinée, après avoir englouti quelques paranthas et quelques tchais, ils viennent me chercher, sourires aux lèvres : si j’ai bien compris ça fait un moment qu’ils voulaient trouver une moto, il faut croire qu’ils m’attendaient !

Ils n’ont pas l’air d’être prêts pour partir aujourd’hui et me confient qu’ils doivent s’occuper de quelques babioles avant de partir à l’aventure. Ca tombe bien, la pluie se met à tomber. Seb aura quand même le temps de m’amener faire un petit tour pour me découvrir un peu, rien que lui et moi. Demain, c’est le grand départ.

BONJOUR ZAZA, ou Comment apprivoiser une moto indienne un peu capricieuse.

Dimanche matin, on se réveille excités comme des enfants à la veille de Noël : aujourd’hui, on part avec Zaza, notre Bullet Royal Enfield 350 empruntée, pour quinze jours. On commence par tout charger sur ses portes bagages avec tendresse : un sac de chaque côté, encadrés par les tapis de sol, et la tente et la bouffe à l’arrière. C’est parti ! 100 mètres plus loin, Seb flanche : ouuuh, c’est lourd ! Aller, c’est pas grave, mieux vaut être prudents : faux départ, on retourne à notre auberge, faisons un immense tri dans nos sacs pour n’en garder qu’un : le sac de Marjo restera à l’auberge avec le non-nécessaire, et le sac de Seb sera installé à l’arrière de Zaza, avec le nécessaire. Du coup, un tapis de sol accompagné de la bouffe se cale d’un côté, l’autre tapis de sol accompagné de la tente se cale de l’autre côté.

Ca y est, cette fois, c’est la bonne. Seb à l’avant, Marjo à l’arrière, Zaza en dessous, on dévale la pente ardue descendant dans la vallée de Daramsala et on sent déjà le goût de la liberté flotter à travers nos cheveux presque au vent. Nous ne pensons pas aller très loin aujourd’hui, et prenons la petite route en direction de Palampur. Au bout de quelques kilomètres, les surprises commencent et nous sommes pris dans un immense embouteillage de : voitures, motos, vélos, bus, camions, charrettes, personnes humaines, vaches, buffles, et autres bizarreries. Même les deux roues n’ont pas la place de se faufiler entre les deux files de voiture. Seb, la main sur l’embrayage, tient tant bien que mal sa Zaza mal apprivoisée entre ses mains, peinant pour ne pas partir en arrière sur cette route sinueuse et en pente. Ca commence à sentir mauvais … et on se demande bien ce qu’il se passe autour de nous. On finit par arrêter Zaza sur le côté, au grand désespoir des organisateurs du bouchon qui nous demandent de nous décaler pour laisser un plus grand passage pour les piétons en masse. Un d’eux finit par nous expliquer qu’il y a un grand « prêtre » de l’hindouisme présent dans le village et que tous ces gens viennent en cette occasion. Et ba, il en a des admirateurs ! Si on avait sur on aurait pris l’autre route !

Au bon d’un moment, la circulation fait mine de s’améliorer. Nous remontons sur Zaza  et attaquons la route de montagne. Deux virages plus loin, le bouchon est encore là. Seb joue de l’embrayage pour faire démarrer en pente la lourde Zaza, son équipage et leurs bagages. La moto cale plusieurs fois et il est très difficile de retrouver le point mort avant de redémarrer. Les bus impatients klaxonnent nerveusement. Finalement, quelques claquements métalliques et une  sale odeur d’huile brulée plus tard, l’embrayage ne répond plus et les vitesses deviennent inaccessibles. On abandonne le navire sur le bord de la chaussée encombrée.

Un homme nous aide à la pousser un kilomètre plus loin où l’on pourra trouver un garage. Manque de pot, celui-ci est fermé. Pendant qu’un attroupement de points d’interrogation s’entasse autour de nous, notre nouveau copain et ses nouveaux copains nous cherchent une solution, et d’autres nouveaux copains s’occupent de Marjo et veillent à ce qu’elle ne reste pas sous ce soleil tapant : Madame se retrouve vite sous le auvent d’une petite boutique, bouteille d’eau fraiche en main et ventilateur en face d’elle.

Finalement, on nous explique qu’il faut aller au garage suivant, à plusieurs kilomètres de là. Une dizaine de passants attrape Zaza à bout de bras et la charge dans le pick-up d’un gros 4x4. On s’inquiète tout de même de qui paiera au final ce dégât et voulons appeler le propriétaire. Notre copain le fait pour nous et nous rassure sur la question : il vous demande juste d’amener des factures.

Arrivés au garage, le mécano nous fait le devis et nous voulons tout de même avoir directement le propriétaire au téléphone. Bien sur, celui-ci nie la conversation téléphonique précédente et nous entamons une longue dispute au téléphone en lui expliquant que non, ce n’est pas possible qu’on ait cassé l’embrayage en 20 kilomètres et que la mécanique était surement usée auparavant !

Le mécanicien (expert en Royal Enfield) remplace le vieux disque d’embrayage trop usé (pas que par les récents bouchons), nettoie l’huile et remonte le tout.

Le problème est enfin réglé et le mécano nous affirme, en hindi et en langage-des-mains-et-des-yeux que la moto ira loin, maintenant ! On rechevauche Zaza et roulons jusqu’à la prochaine ville, Palampur, et trouvons vite un hôtel, avalons un bon thali et regardons un bon navet américain à la télé pour se reposer de cette dure journée.

SEB, MARJO ET MOI, ou Comment m’apprivoiser en me faisant rouler sur des routes de montagne même pas marquées sur les cartes.

Après leur grasse mat’ et leur petit déj devenu indispensable, Seb et Marjo me sortent du petit garage de la guest house et me chargent, c’est reparti.

Le ciel bleu est au rendez-vous et colore la route magnifique entourée de hauts sommets enneigés et de champs verdoyants. Les virages et les cailloux semés sur cette petite route me fatiguent vite et ma roue arrière crève ; un indien croisé au détour du chemin va chercher un mécano en moto qui vient démonter mon cycle arrière pour aller le réparer dans sa bicoque quelques kilomètres plus loin.

Rien de grave, on repart  en direction du lac Prashar, qu’ils ont vu sur leur carte un peu vieille, et très approximative... La route est magnifique, il n’y a rien à dire, mais pour la deuxième journée en ma compagnie, ils sont pas peureux les deux p’tits loups ! Après plusieurs dizaines de kilomètres sur une jolie route goudronnée et tortueuse, un bon thali de campagne et quelques chèvres croisées, le goudron se fait de plus en plus rare, remplacé alors par de petits cailloux et de la terre poussiéreuse, et la route est de plus en plus étroite. Mais, on monte, on monte, ça vertigine, ça foreste, et ça arrive au sommet, au coucher du soleil.

Un berger nous informe qu’il y a une guest house mais qu’on peut aussi planter la tente près du village. Après avoir essayé de continuer la route devenue sentier pour trouver le village, Seb et Marjo se rendent compte que le petit groupement de maison est enfait caché derrière la colline et entouré par un grillage, délimitant la frontière de la propriété du parc national. Ils ont failli me faire m’énerver, mais ouf, on s’arrête pour ce soir.

Un jeune homme nous accueille, il tient une petite boutique et restaurant là depuis quatre ans, et nous propose d’installer notre campement à côté de sa maison. De toutes façons, à part lui, les gardiens du temple, les touristes indiens de passage et les quelques bergers aux alentours, il n’y a pas grand monde ici !

Les maisons sont en pierre et leur toit en ardoise, un temple très connu par les indiens est au bord d’un petit lac, le lac Prashar, décoré par une petite île d’herbe verte ronde se promenant sur ses eaux. Autour, du vert, des chevaux sauvages, des vaches, des corbeaux, des moutons et des chèvres. Et les montagnes, les hauts sommets enneigés à plusieurs centaines de kilomètres de là : nous sommes à 2730 m d’altitude et la vue est imprenable.

Le soir, Seb et Marjo se délectent de chapatis au feu de bois pour accompagner du riz et du dal préparé par les soins de leur nouveau copain avec qui ils partagent le souper, à la bougie. Moi, je reste sage sur le coin du chemin et sympathise avec quelques vaches amicales.

TOSH, ou Comment détourner (un peu) un coin (un peu) trop touristique.

Le réveil se fait tout doux vers 8 heures et nos yeux se délectent de la vue dès la sortie de la tente. Nous reprenons la route après un bon tchai, une balade et plusieurs longues minutes à admirer ce qui nous entoure.

Dans la ville juste avant de bifurquer sur une petite route pour rejoindre la vallée de la Parvati, nous avons besoin de retirer de l’argent mais les distributeurs sont capricieux et aucun de saura satisfaire notre demande. Tant pis, on y va et on avisera. Encore une fois, la route est magnifique et nous nous amusons des nombreuses tyroliennes servant à faire passer provisions et autre de l’autre côté de la vallée, au dessus du torrent déchainé.

On arrive ensuite à Kasol, qui à notre grande surprise est une petite ville bourrée de touristes et de magasins leur étant destiné : on continue en espérant trouver plus adapté à nos besoins plus loin. Manikaran nous semble déjà plus accessible mais la route semble continuer (contredisant alors notre carte) ; après plusieurs kilomètres la route se dégrade un peu mais nous montons jusqu’à Tosh, petit village perché sur une montagne, accessible seulement à pieds, plein de chèvres baladantes, de sourires d’enfants à la peau terreuse, de jolies maisons de pierre mais aussi de tonnes de déchets dans sa rivières et de plusieurs guest house, leurs touristes rattachés et leurs shilums indispensables.

Nous nous arrêtons chez Rabbit, il tient une guest house qui ressemble plus à un squat avec ses nombreux graffitis multicolores et plus ou moins réussis. Les chambres sont sommaires et la salle de bain encore plus, mais c’est pas cher, il y a une jolie salle commune et il est très sympa.

Le lendemain, nous passons la journée avec Rabbit qui doit descendre faire des courses pour la guest house ; nous, on doit absolument trouver de l’argent si l’on veut continuer notre route à pieds vers Khirganga et ses sources d’eau chaude.

KHIRGANGA, ou Comment éviter les touristes-trop-shillum tout en profitant des agréables sources d’eau chaude.

Dans la matinée, salade de riz pour midi et babioles dans le sac, nous partons à pieds en direction de Khirganga, petit village connu pour ses sources d’eau chaude.

Les 4 heures de marche sont animées par les nombreux vieux nous proposant à fumer, les nombreux plants de cannabis au bord du sentier, les quelques lieux dédiés à différents dieux, les belles cascades, la tombée de la pluie pendant notre salade de riz et la rencontre d’une maman et de sa petite fille très joueuse autour d’un tchai réchauffant.

Nous arrivons à Khirganga après une dernière partie forestière et humide, et observons avec amusement ce village construit autour du tourisme, tout en taule, en bache jaune et en quelques pierres. Il n’y a que des restaurants et des chambrettes à louer, à la bonne franquette. Autour, le paysage est magnifique et les sources d’eau chaude sont très bien exploitées avec un bain pour les hommes, un bain entouré de planches de bois pour les femmes.

Nous nous délectons de plusieurs bains ressourçants dans l’eau chaude et de quelques rencontres intéressantes, nous nous amusons à cuisiner une omelette aux oignons au poêle de notre chambrette en taule (la nourriture dans les restaurants sont bien sur hors de prix, et oui il faut tout amener jusque là !), et essayons avec difficulté d’éviter le trop plein de touristes venus là essentiellement pour se défoncer la gueule entre eux !

MANALI, ou Comment prendre quelques jours de repos dans un joli vieux village un peu trop envahi de touristes.

Après la balade retour et une journée à Tosh, nous repartons en direction de Manali, où nous arrivons en fin d’après-midi. Nous trouvons une chambre modeste chez une famille, le gérant est très gentil et les femmes de la maison également : grands sourires, quelques discussions, et un logement chez l’habitant : il n’y a pas grand monde !

Nous passons trois jours dans le joli vieux village de Manali, à se promener dans les ruelles, à serpenter dans le marché de la « nouvelle » ville, à boire des tchais et manger des paranthas, à trainer et bidouiller.

ZAZA ET NOUS, ou Comment rencontrer des indiennes en sarees et manteau de fourrure panthère et découvrir une station de ski à 3500m d’altitude.

Nous décollons de Manali en toute fin de matinée en direction du col Rothrang ; de l’autre côté, Leh, la vallée de la Spiti et les hauts sommets du Ladakh.

La route est splendide et surtout très fréquentée, que ce soit par les touristes (indiens) à cheval, les touristes (indiens) en voiture ou mini-bus, les touristes (indiens) à moto, les vendeurs de maïs chaud, les vendeurs de safran, les loueurs de combinaisons de ski, de bottes en caoutchouc ou de manteaux, les moniteurs de cheval, et les chevaux. Après un bon nombre de virages dangereux, nous sommes surpris de nous retrouver dans un embouteillage impressionnant puis amusés de se rendre compte qu’ici, il y a une sorte de station de ski.

Les femmes en sarees les ont recouvert de manteaux de fourrure, les enfants ont recouvert leurs vêtements de ville par des combinaisons roses bonbon ou vert hôpital (imaginez les bronzés ou les stations de ski de notre enfance !), les hommes bottes en caoutchouc aux pieds, bonnet de laine sur la tête et lunettes de soleil flambant neuves sur le nez, les yaks se sont parés de leurs plus beaux revêtements de laine et les quads font gronder leurs moteurs.

Des grandes pistes de luge sont aménagées ; certains ont des skis aux pieds et montent tant bien que mal les pistes enneigées pour s’accorder 1 minute de plaisir descente.

Nous arrivons ensuite dans un petit village, intégralement recouvert de neige durant l’hiver ; il est à peine en train de reprendre vie et nombreuses sont les pelleteuses ou les pelles à l’action. Chacun reconstruit le petit mur de pierre autour de sa maison. Nous rencontrons quatre frères tenant un petit bouiboui et plantons la tente juste derrière leur maison. Il fait froid mais c’est magnifique et l’ambiance chaleureuse. Ce soir, nous testons l’efficacité de nos duvets The North Face jaune canard !

SEB ET ZAZA, ou Comment ne plus avoir peur de rien en moto sur les routes de l’Himalaya.

Après deux paranthas à la pomme de terre et quelques tchais engloutis, c’est parti. Le vent est un peu tombé, il fait encore bien frais ce matin mais mes deux passagers se couvrent mieux que d’habitude. Après avoir chargé les bagages et acheté deux litres d’essence (on n’est pas trop surs des stations services disponibles de l’autre côté de la montagne !), Seb monte à l’avant, Marjo à l’arrière. Habitué maintenant, il met le contact en route et je démarre, mon moteur gronde doucement et je sais qu’il aime bien ça.

C’est pas n’importe quelle épreuve qu’on traverse ensemble aujourd’hui, on monte au col Rhotrang, à 3950m d’altitude, dans l’optique d’essayer de redescendre de l’autre côté, vers la belle fameuse vallée de la Spiti, Keylong, Leh… Certains disent que les routes sont fermées, d’autres que non : le meilleur moyen de savoir est donc d’aller sur place se renseigner. Même si on n’aura surement pas le temps d’aller bien plus loin : dans trois jours, ils doivent malheureusement me ramener à mon propriétaire.

On commence en douceur, la route est goudronnée, relativement large et plutôt en bon état. Mais sans trop tarder, on comprend la difficulté prévenue lorsqu’il faut traverser une gadoue profonde et pâteuse sur quelques mètres : ça commence !

Seb me fait monter les épingles à cheveux les unes après les autres ; parfois sur le goudron, parfois dans la boue, parfois dans la caillasse, parfois il faut même traverser des petits ruisseaux formés par la fonte des gros névés de neige de plusieurs mètres de haut restés sur le côté : seule la route a été, plus ou moins, dégagée. Avec ses mouvements souples du bassin, ses bras musclés et son excitation d’être aux commandes d’un si bel engin, il s’en sort comme un chef et je ne prends qu’une seule pierre, ou deux, contre mes portes bagages.

Marjo, elle, est à l’aise maintenant. Bien installée sur ma selle arrière, à califourchon sur sa Zaza chérie, elle suit le mouvement de la route et danse à chaque virage, une fois à droite, une fois à gauche, les mains dans les poches pour ne pas trop souffrir du vent froid à chaque passage dans un couloir de neige. Elle s’est habituée à la conduite de Seb et au bruit de mon moteur et nous fait confiance maintenant.

Plus on monte, plus il fait froid, et malgré la chaleur de ma mécanique, je le sens moi aussi. Par contre,  y’a rien à dire, c’est magnifique et le voyage vaut le détour. Au fil de la montée, on voit les sommets enneigés apparaître et la vue de là haut est magnifique.

Après une courte pause, quelques photos de famille, un peu d’eau fraiche et deux pipis rechargent les batteries de l’équipage : en avant pour la descente.

La route est au début goudronnée mais très vite on  voit que ce versant de la montagne est en moins bon état. Pas bien surs d’avoir assez d’essence, Seb éteint mon moteur et nous descendons la route sinueuse doucement. Les ruisseaux de neige fondue et sale se font beaucoup plus nombreux et nous sommes arrêtés par une chute de neige sur la route en train d’être dégagée par une grosse machine jaune, avec à ses commandes un gros monsieur à la peau foncée et coiffé d’un bonnet. Au détour d’un virage, on découvre avec surprise et amusement un immense camion à moitié dans la neige et le pneu crevé : il doit être là depuis la fin de l’été dernier et a du être enseveli par la neige, puis découvert par le tractopelle lors du dégagement de la route. Lorsque la pente n’est plus assez forte, Seb remet le contact et mon moteur gronde de nouveau…

Arrivés en bas, on a le choix : à droite, direction vallée de la Spiti ; à gauche, direction Keylong, puis Leh.

DE L’AUTRE COTE DE LA MONTAGNE, ou comment rouler sur les belles routes himalayennes.

Le  passage du col n’a pas été de tout repos, mais ça y est, on est de l’autre côté de la montagne, on est arrivés là où tous sont coupés du reste du pays durant les longs mois d’hiver.

On prend à gauche, direction Keylong, on verra si la route de Leh est ouverte, sinon ça nous fait faire un petit tour par ici quand même avant de repartir. Et puis, on est à peu près surs de trouver une auberge avec douche chaude par là bas, et on estime qu’on la mérite bien !

Au premier village, un panneau annonce que les visiteurs étrangers doivent faire enregistrer leur passeport et visa au poste de police : ils répertorient tous les passages, en cas de problème sur les routes, surement.

Le torrent serpente dans la vallée avec sa belle couleur verdoyante, les sommets enneigés l’encadrent et l’agréable route et, à califourchon sur Zaza, ses doux virages nous bercent : c’est magnifique.

J’observe la région se réveiller doucement, profitant d’être passager et de ne pas (trop) avoir à me soucier de la route : les ponts ou les barrières chassés par les neiges ou les vents de l’hiver rouillent dans les eaux agitées du torrent, les habitants réparent leur maison tant bien que mal, les ouvriers dégagent les grosses pierres de la route, les nombreuses « guest houses » de bord de route sont encore fermées, les bouibouis ouvrent doucement et l’on peut lire sur leurs panneaux abîmés : Chowmien, Rice, Momos, Tea.

En bord de route et à la sortie des villages, les terrasses arrondies creusées dans la montagne et destinées aux maraichages me plaisent ; leur terre vient juste d’être labourée, et l’on aperçoit même quelques tracteurs à l’ouvrage.

Quelques kilomètres avant Keylong, nous croisons une station service et sommes non peu fiers de se rendre compte qu’on ne serait pas allés très loin. On fait le plein et s’amusons devant le panneau indiquant la prochaine station service à plus de 300 kilomètres.

Dans l’après-midi, on arrive à Keylong et on trouve une chambre facilement ; là aussi, la saison commence doucement et l’on prend plaisir à se balader dans ses rues qui semblent être destinées au tourisme, mais encore désertes. La douche chaude, la petite sieste accordée, ainsi que les momos et le tchai servis par deux sympathiques jeunes femmes dans leur bicoque toute de bleu peinte nous revigorent. Ce soir, on ne fera pas long feu !

Le réveil est doux après cette bonne nuit : épuisés, on s’est endormi rapidement et avons dormi d’un sommeil de plomb.

Nous retournons dans notre bicoque bleue favorite et dégustons du bon tchai dont on ne peut plus se passer, et quelques paranthas à la pomme de terre : c’est devenu notre petit déj fétiche de l’Inde que l’on compte bien faire découvrir à nos proches à notre retour ! Après un petit tour dans le village et quelques photos – le ciel est bleu et le soleil chauffe doucement – on décide de repartir en arrière : la route jusqu’à Mc Leod Ganj est longue, et tout faire en seulement deux jours ne nous semble pas vraiment raisonnable.

Il fait meilleur sur la moto, le vent est frais mais nos polaires nous suffisent. Seb prend autant de plaisir que la veille à slalomer sur cette jolie route, moi je chantonne à l’arrière et admire tous ces beaux paysages, me retenant de détourner l’attention du conducteur à chaque nouvelle surprise aperçue.

Au village en bas du col, on se prend une petite pose tchai avant d’entamer la longue et difficile ascension du col Rothrang : il a plu la veille à Keylong, et donc surement neigé là haut …

ZAZA ET SEB, ou comment ne vraiment plus avoir peur de rien en moto sur les routes de l’Himalaya.

« Marjo, t’as ton sweat pas loin ? » J’enfile le sweat gris foncé par-dessus les couches inférieures : T-shirt (rouge), sous-pull (rayé blanc et bleu), polaire (marron).

« On sait jamais... » Je démarre une énième fois notre Zaza d’emprunt d’un grand coup de kick et d’une légère rotation de la poignée des gaz. C’est parti pour l’ascension ! Le début se passe bien, l’air est frais mais supportable, la route humide mais adhérente. Puis les choses se compliquent. La température descend et les petits ruisseaux formés par la récente fonte des neiges m’empêchent de rouler droit. Je jongle d’un côté à l’autre de la piste caillouteuse pour ne pas trop nous mouiller les pieds. Arrivés en haut, l’eau s’est calmée mais le froid a redoublé d’ardeur. Mes quatre épaisseurs ne suffisent pas, je me les caille ! Mes doigts nus ne s’ouvrent plus et je reste constamment en seconde, faute de pouvoir changer de vitesse. Marjo reste silencieuse, elle ne regrette pas d’avoir acheté son nouveau manteau et se blottit derrière moi, les mains dans les poches. Petite séance de « réchauffement » à 4000 mètre, pipis et c’est reparti. La descente s’avère encore plus stressante, les petits ruisseaux se sont transformés en petits torrents dégoulinants et d’autres véhicules pataugent devant nous. Je plonge plusieurs fois mes chaussures dans le liquide froid afin de rééquilibrer l’intrépide Zaza et de ne pas embrasser le vide. Un groupe de jeunes Sikhs motorisés, en combinaisons de ski et en tongs, nous doublent. Nous arrivons enfin au petit village, froids et mouillés. On boit un tchai chez nos amis et finissons la descente, plus agréable jusqu’à Manali.

ESKANOUIL ET MOI, ou comment se dire au revoir un peu brusquement.

Après une bonne nuit à Manali, nous repartons le 19 mai au matin et ils décident finalement de faire toute la route aujourd’hui. On roule toute la journée, avec une petite pause à midi dans une jolie bicoque de bord de route où les aventuriers se délectent d’un thali et d’un coca frais.

Il pleuvine un moment mais c’est pas grave, ça pourrait être pire… D’autant plus que les paysages sont magnifiques. Seb s’amuse à faire la course aux deux roues moins puissants, à doubler les gros TATAs dans les virages et à se faire doubler de la même manière par les bus inconscient sous les regards désintéressés des singes de bord de route. Moi, je leur fais l’honneur de ne pas crever une seule fois et de me contenter de faire tourner mon moteur pour arriver à bon port, même si je sais qu’on aimerait tous passer encore quelques jours voire plus tous ensemble.

Arrivés à Daramshala, nous sommes surpris dans un bouchon causé par le match de cricket ayant lieu au stade le soir même, soit dans quelques heures. Nous arrivons finalement à Mc Leod Ganj à la tombée de la nuit, Marjo se démène pour trouver un endroit où dormir : à cause du match tous les hôtels dont celui où ils ont laissé leur sac sont complets. Finalement, un gérant de guest house lui propose de dormir dans la salle de cours d’Hindi, à condition qu’ils décampent le lendemain matin à 8heures.

Elle nous rejoint, Seb est resté avec moi en bas. Ils montent vite leurs affaires dans leur petite chambre et on redescend tous ensemble en direction du garage de mon propriétaire. Les eskanouils sont contents et un peu étonnés de voir qu’il n’a aucune hésitation à leur rembourser les frais de la panne du premier jour. Derniers regards, « au revoir Zaza » ; je reste dans le garage, Toto est là pour me réconforter.

- Les photos -

Commentaires (910) Trackbacks (0)
  1. Pour moi garam masala c’est une épice et pour vous daramshala c’est une ville avec des gens, des couleurs, des gouts, des odeurs, moi je n’ai que le goût…à chacun son exotisme …
    En parlant de saveur, je suis d’accord pour goûter les trucs à la patate avec ou sans garam masala !

    Pour nous l’exotisme plus poussé sera pour cet été, le camion vert nous emmenera jusqu’en Géorgie et en Azerbaïdjan.

    J’ai beaucoup aimé les gens à la station de ski (surprise et couleurs) et aussi le camion sous la neige !

    Quelle belle aventure pour SuperZaza ! Un 4000 !

    Continuez à en profiter, nous vous envoyons une grosse bise
    Claire

  2. Hey les loulous!! Mais vous avez réalisé tous nos rêves Mongoles la bas!! La moto, les sources d’eau chaudes ou il est possible de se baigner!! C’est génial ! Continuez à avoir les yeux bien ouvert et à tout déguster !! On vous embrasse de notre bonne vieille France !

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