ESKANOUIL'
25Juin/12913

D’Ajmer à Mc Leod Ganj, peripeties.

Le vendredi 13 Avril, vers une heure du matin, nous descendons à la station ferroviaire d’Ajmer dans la région du Rajasthan, en Inde.

Nous constatons avec agacement qu’il n’y a pas d’heure pour appâter deux petits visages pâles fatigués et éprouvés par leur réveil matinal. Mais cette fois, ni touk-touk, ni truc-truc, ni bidule machin chouette à roulette voulant gratter quelques dizaines de roupettes sur notre dos n’auront raison de nous : ON SE DEMERDE !

Malheureusement les ruelles de la ville dans le quartier de la gare sont sombres, puantes, sales, nos sacs sont lourds, nos jambes sont las et les quelques hôtels que l’on fini par dénicher sont hors de prix.

OK.

On déplie le matelas de sol chinois presque flambant neuf de Marjo. Puis celui tout aplatit, sale et déchiqueté de Seb. On les étend dans un coin, sur le sol bondé de la station. Marjo dort. Seb essaye de ne pas trop sympathiser avec les indiens saoulés à la bière locale (bourrée de préservatifs au goût amère). L’heure tourne. Les pages de l’énorme bouquin mélo-britano-dramatique (de l’Inde des années 50) aussi. Seb ferme le livre et réveille Marjo.

Onze kilomètres plus loin. Un bus local bon marché (mais plein à craquer) nous dépose de bonne heure dans la mystique ville de Pushkar.

Celle-ci est réputée pour avoir été le point d’impact d’une fleur de lotus lâché par un cygne envoyé par les dieux, afin que Brahmā puisse y accomplir un rituel hindou particulier.

Brahmā est le dieu créateur de l’hindouisme.
Il possède quatre visages regardant chacun vers un point cardinal différent, et quatre bras tenant dans leur main des objets sacrés. Il est la plupart du temps représenté montant un cygne, ou une oie. Contrairement aux deux autres dieux majeurs de l’hindouisme, Vishnou et Shiva, Brahmā n’est que très peu vénéré des mortels et ne possède que trois temples lui étant complètement dédié.
L’un d’entre eux est à Pushkar.

La ville est donc un important lieu de pèlerinage. Au milieu de la cité, un lac est entouré de 52 Ghats permettant aux pèlerins de descendre au niveau de l’eau pour se baigner dans les eaux sacrées.  Autour du lac il est interdit d’être chaussé. Dans toute la ville, l’ingestion d’alcool, de viande et d’œufs est proscrite.

Pushkar fut un point de passage important des mouvements hippies des années 70. Aujourd’hui ce sont les néo-hippies colorés à dreadlocks francophones, les sauvages baba-cool hispaniques à culottes de cuir et les routards allemands aux Birkenshtock usées qui viennent amuser les nombreux touristes indiens. Dans la rue principale on trouve de tout, à condition que le but de la recherche entre dans la catégorie des cinq ou six sortes de magasins se répétant sur un bon kilomètre et demi :

-    bijoux (ornés de vraies fausses pierres turquoises)
-    vêtements et accessoires (typiquement indiens)
-    (usines à) milkshakes, fruits-mix et Lassis, banana + mango
-    antiquaires (à la mode)
-    agences de tours (à chameaux)

Le Chaï, siroté en terrasse, est de vigueur chez les voyageurs. Car c’est bon, chaud, laiteux, épicé et sucré. De plus, les indiens en raffolent ! Mais les indiens, eux, préfèrent le boire en quelques gorgées brulantes, debout, à un coin de rue encombrée. Après avoir démantelé leur petit récipient de terre cuite contre le sol d’un geste simple, ils paient d’un geste tout aussi simple le quart du prix annoncé dans la plupart des Guest-House populaires.

Dans ces Guest-House, on peut y dormir, mais aussi y manger. Selon les moyens et les envies, on y trouve de l’alcool, de la viande ou des œufs (malgré leur absence dans le menu), moyennant quelques billets aux parfums étrangers. Dans la rue, des dealeurs proposent de nombreuses substances plus exotiques que ces dernières.

Nous passons donc une première journée à Pushkar pour nous reposer et Marjo tombe malade. C’est donc au tour de Seb de s’occuper de l’approvisionnement en médicaments locaux et en bouteilles de Coca-Cola fraiches.

Quelques jours plus tard nous louons enfin une moto.

Depuis quelques semaines une idée trotte dans nos petits esprits vagabonds :
« Et si, en Inde, on achetait une moto ? »

Notre couchsurfeur de Calcutta, Ashish, nous a conseillé d’acheter la moto plus au Nord, afin d’éviter les longues et chaudes distances de la saison. On pourrait ainsi visiter l’Himalaya indien, rejoindre le Népal et enfin revendre l’engin à Katmandou.

Peu certains de comment s’y prendre, nous commençons par tâter le terrain avec une petite 125 centimètres cube locale que nous équipons du sac de Marjo (le plus petit) rempli du strict nécessaire. En Inde, les scooters semi-automatiques Sud-est asiatiques ont disparu et ce sont les légères motocyclettes à boite qui pullulent sur les routes et dans les villes. Nous faisons la course avec ces dernières, à gauche. Par la droite, on double.

Kramas Khmers sur la tête, lunettes de soleil et mouches dans les dents. On se perd plusieurs fois sur notre carte routière bicolore. Détours aux gouts de vaches blanches paresseuses.

(a)    Trois jours de routes plus ou moins goudronnées.
(b)    Une rencontre étrange avec un directeur indien d’une école d’américain.
(c)    Deux invitations à manger aussi amusantes que successives.
(d)    Un accueil aussi chaleureux que sincère au parfum de Chaï à la cardamome.
(e)    Un repas complet sur un lit conjugal.
(f)    Une première crevaison. Une rustine.
(g)    Dix litres d’essence achetés. Moins utilisé.
(h)    Une deuxième crevaison. Une chambre à air
(i)     Une tentative d’escroquerie bien arrangée par le duo d’une Marjolaine tenace et d’un Sébastien ricaneur.
(j)    Une autoroute à trois voies remplie de gros camions TATA
(k)    Une bande d’arrêt d’urgence remplie de petites motocyclettes.
(l)    Un chameau en manque d’affection.
(m)    Un lac salé, desséché.
(n)    Un village introuvable.
(o)    Des regards. Et des sourires.

(a)    Dans le Rajasthan, l’état des routes est aussi varié que les couleurs de peau de ses habitants. Nous passons sur une jolie nationale au bitume plat et chaud entourée d’infinis déserts d’herbes courtes et jaunies par le soleil. Puis entamons des sentiers ensablés au milieu de champs de blés verts rizières. Parcourons des départementales au goudron indécis et aux nombreuses mares de sel blanc. Et suffoquons sous l’écrasante chaleur des pots d’échappements autoroutiers.

(b)    Notre première nuit dans une ville inconnue des différentes bibles indiennes du voyageur (Lonely routard ou Le guide d’la Planet), s’effectuera à MACHIN. Pas MACHIN à l’Ouest de BIDULE, mais bien MACHIN au Nord-est de cette dernière. A peine installés dans la chambre miteuse (de laquelle nous avons encore une fois dut sévèrement calmer les ardeurs du coût) d’un hôtel pourri, qu’un jeune-homme invite Seb à rencontrer le directeur de l’école « American Institute ». Le lendemain, nous serons tous les deux conviés à partager un « petit déjeuner traditionnel du Rajasthan » fictif et à répondre à des questions d’élèves sans paroles. Un peu piégés par ce jeune directeur en costard calculateur et à la langue anglaise mielleuse, nous passerons tout de même un moment intéressant dans cette école, à essayer d’expliquer que,oui, la France est un peu différente de l’Inde, sur de nombreux sujets.

(c)    Nous aurons finalement droit à nos petits dej’ spéciaux, à midi. Un élève, puis un professeur nous inviterons successivement dans leur maison citadine et paysanne pour y goûter différent mets plus ou moins laiteux et épicés. Nous en apprendrons un peu plus sur l’hindouisme, ce qui apaisera quelque peu notre curiosité.

(d)    Le deuxième soir, après une après midi à jongler entre les vitesses mécaniques, nous nous arrêtons dans le deuxième village inconnu. A peine Seb a t’il équilibré le poids de la moto arrêtée sur ses deux pieds à terre qu’un homme nous invite chez lui. Il nous trouvera une salle pour dormir et sa femme nous offrira un délicieux Chaï à la cardamome (que nous ne sommes pas prêts d’oublier) tout en bavassant.

(e)    Plus tard, notre ami viendra nous déloger de notre moustiquaire pour nous inviter à diner. Chez lui, nous nous installons sur le grand lit conjugal pour siroter un cola indien. Puis la sœur, le beau frère et leur petite fille arrivent. Tout le monde, à l’exception de la femme de notre ami, prend place sur le lit. Cette dernière distribue la vaisselle métallique puis apporte délicatement Chapatis (fines galettes de pain), Curry aux pommes de terre, Curd (fromage blanc), mixtures aussi colorées qu’épicées et riz. Nous mangeons assis en tailleur ou en demi-lotus aux lueurs des bougies réparant les nombreuses coupures d’électricité.

(f)    Le pneu arrière de la moto est à plat. Pour 20 roupies, un vieil homme répare le problème non sans préciser que la chambre à air est très vieille, trop souvent réparée et prête à rendre l’âme d’un moment à l’autre.

(g)    Le vicieux loueur de cyclomoteur nous avait dit : 1 litre d’essence = 20 kilomètres de liberté. Nous avons donc payé le prix de la liberté pour dix fois vingt kilomètres, soit quelques minuscules milliers de mètres de routes. Notre dernier ami rectifia le calcul : avec ce type d’engin et un litre d’essence dans le réservoir nous pouvons assurément parcourir plus de soixante kilomètres. Bien sur, le surplus d’essence est renvoyé à l’envoyeur. Tricheur.

(h)    Sur une grande voie rapide peu encombrée, juste avant un grand pont au faux plat ascendant traitre, l’arrière de la moto glisse de gauche à droite. Le pneu est de nouveau à plat. Seb pousse. Marjo tousse (TATAs). Indiens aidant nous aident, un petit réparateur n’est pas loin. Cette fois-ci, rien à faire et faut faire changer la chambre à air. Combien ? 30 roupies ? 3 + 0 = 30 ? Thirty ? … Ok.

(i)    « Ce n’est quand même pas cher, trente roupies.. » dit Marjo en sirotant son Pepsi frais. « Oui, mais la main d’œuvre coûte rien dans ce pays.. » réplique Seb content d’avoir retrouvé ses lunettes. Chambre à air installée, ancienne chambre à air découpée pour renforcer la nouvelle : c’est prêt. Seb tend victorieusement le billet de cinquante roupies espérant voir rapidement arriver sa monnaie. Mais le regard blanc du jeune mécanicien bronzé par la chaleur se fige en un gros point d’interrogation. Les sourcils bruns de Seb s’exclament. Le jeune dessine, dans le sable, trois chiffres : 3 – 5 – 0. Seb sourit. « Marjo, y’a un malentendu ». Trente minutes plus tard, le prix est descendu à 250 roupies mais Marjo continue à faire entendre l’injustice dans un anglais contrarié. Seb, amusé par l’attroupement moqueur (envers les deux partis) lance des regards froids et accusateurs dans les yeux blancs sable. 200 roupies, OK. Nous apprendrons dès notre retour qu’une chambre à air neuve vaut 150 roupies, nous nous ferons rembourser ce prix auprès du loueur.

(j)    L’autoroute. Trois voies ou tracteurs doublent charrettes, ou petits camions TATA doublent énormes poids lourds TATA, où 4x4 TATA doublent camions TATA et où les rares voitures particulières flambant neuves doublent le tout.

(k)    Les motos, elles, se faufilent. Sur la première, la deuxième et parfois même la troisième voie afin de doubler autres motos, charrettes, tracteurs et TATA en tout genre. Mais la plupart du temps se planquent sur la bande d’arrêt d’urgence (voie d’un mètre de largeur, dans le meilleur des cas) et doublent par la gauche quand elles n’ont pas le choix. Lorsqu’un gros TATA approche en contre sens, elles se décalent. Seb apprend rapidement le refrain. Marjo rétrovise.

(l)    Seb se fait un copain.

(m)    « Où on va ? ». « Là, regarde, sur la carte, un lac ». « Cool, un lac ! ». « On y va ! ». Mais lac, il n’y avait pas. Ou du moins, il n’y avait plus. D’énormes tas de sel frais jonchent le sol plat de son emplacement. La baignade : pour plus tard.

(n)    A la recherche du village perdu de Bana. Bana, le jeune employé de la Guest-House qui nous a invités chez lui. Nous ne trouverons jamais ce village.

(o)    Des regards blancs, intenses, curieux, masculins, trop souvent, des regards. Des sourires, c’est bien.

Retour à Pushkar. Repos bien mérité agrémenté de spaghettis à la tomate. On visite un peu mieux la ville, son lac intérieur et ses bâtiments aux styles très différents les uns des autres. C’est joli, calme. Des oiseaux. Demain, on part pour Delhi. Un bus nous attend vers vingt-et-une heure : couchettes simples ou doubles et compartiments fermés pour les voyageurs, sièges pour les locaux.
Si on avait su.

Delhi. Taxis hélicoptères à roulettes aux couleurs Jamaïquaines, touk-touk. Rues encombrées, mendiantes colorées. Stations de métro en carton laqué au patron unique. Rames souterraines réservées aux dames. Odeurs.

Un écran d’ordinateur réparé, un colis envoyé, on rejoint rapidement « Hauz khas village », le quartier de Ritesh.

Ritesh. L’ami de Noé, l’amie des voyageurs. Ritesh le souriant, l’accueillant, le beau-parlant, le gérant, le rigolant.

Nous passons une semaine dans la capitale à discuter,

(a) avec nos nouveaux copains, indien, français, allemand, russe, rwandais, italien, espagnol
(b) le prix des touk-touk
(c) le prix des Royal Enfield, modèle Bullet 350

(a)    « Hauz khas village » n’étant pas un quartier typiquement indien (comme les vêtements vendus dans la rue principale de Pushkar), beaucoup d’étrangers s’y sentent bien. C’est plus calme, plus propre, plus accessible, plus cher. La rue est piétonne (un touk-touk est considéré comme un piéton à trois roues). Ritesh vit avec quatre de ces étrangers expatriés et parle l’anglais bien mieux que Seb ne parle le français. Ritesh est un personnage plein de vie, plein d’ambition. On partage son regard d’indien vivant au milieu d’une Inde aux mille et un visages. On en apprend plus sur le système des castes, les mariages arrangés, les différentes religions, les différents niveaux de vie, les différences (en général).

(b)    Un blanc, ne parlant pas hindi et sans expérience de voyage = prix quadruple.
Un blanc, ne parlant pas hindi avec un peu d’expérience = prix double.
Un blanc, parlant hindi = prix un et demi.
Un indien, parlant hindi = prix normal (mais avec tentative de un et demi).

(c)    La fameuse marque « Royal Enfield » (il fut un temps, britannique, mais maintenant fièrement indienne) produit des cyclomoteurs légers. Le modèle « Bullet 350 » est un modèle à l’apparence presque inchangée depuis les années 30. Une moto robuste, confortable, suffisamment puissante et ayant de l’allure : parfaite pour deux petits voyageurs en mal de cycles. Nous parcourons de haut en bas, de droite à gauche, le fameux quartier des bécanes : « Karol Bagh » à la recherche de notre engin. Mais, à l’instar des touk-touk : deux petits blancs ne parlant pas hindi n’ont pas de bon prix. Et puis, plus la recherche avance, plus les doutes augmentent quant à la possibilité de traverser la frontière du Népal et de revendre la moto à Katmandou. On abandonne l’achat pour préférer la location.

Mais pas à Delhi (trop grand, trop loin, trop bruyant). On vise donc (hasardement) une ville en province située au bout d’une ligne de chemin ferré : Amritsar.

Amritsar. Située au nord-ouest de l’état du Pendjab indien, elle abrite le Harmandir Sâhib, également appelé Temple d'Or, centre spirituel et culturel de la communauté Sikh. Le peuple Sikh, c’est ces messieurs au turban et à la barbe qu’on voit souvent dans les films. En réalité, il y a aussi des femmes. Le turban cache la longue chevelure des hommes, le peigne la retient et le poignard la protège. Le peuple Sikh a sa propre religion, rejetant le système des castes. Dans le fameux Temple d’Or, à l’architecture très différente de ce que l’on a pu observer en Inde jusqu’à maintenant, il règne une atmosphère calme et apaisante. Des milliers de personnes y viennent en pèlerinage, se reposent, méditent, se baignent, dorment et mangent à l’œil : un énorme « restaurant » propose de la nourriture cuisinée et chacun peut, au choix et gratuitement : manger, cuisiner, découper, nettoyer, distribuer ou servir. Malgré cette ambiance de paix, hommes et femmes peuvent se balader librement munis de leurs poignards, lances ou sabres.

Le reste de la ville que nous avons visité est un vrai chaos de bruits, de motos et de sourires édentés. Et avec tout ça : impossible de louer une moto ici.
On déguerpi. En bus, cette fois-ci.
Le moteur nous grille la plante des pieds dans les virages sinueux menant à Dharamsala.

Dharamsala. Plus précisement, Mc Leod Gang, le village en amont. Terre d’accueil du Dalaï-Lama située dans l’état de l’Himachal-Pradesh. Nous restons quelques jours dans ce village hypra-touristique avec ses cinquante hôtels, ses cafés wifi, ses bars à bière et ses tibétains en exils.

De nombreux moines aux visages ronds et aux yeux plissés, hommes et femmes, se baladent paisiblement dans les rues encombrées de shorts et de tongs Quechua. Leurs robes, aux couleurs d’un bon bordeaux à la prune, viennent nuancer la palette chromatique de Marjo. D’autres visages « asiatiques » nous sourient derrière le comptoir de leur épicerie, ou de leur cocotte à Mo-mos.

Nous mangeons des Mo-mos (espèces de raviolis cuits à la vapeur) et buvons des bières avec nos nouveaux copains venus de France, Ludo et Laetitia.

Au bout de quelques tentatives échouées  nous dénichons enfin un garage « Royal Enfield » prêt à nous prêter (moyennant) la fameuse Bullet 350 de nos rêves.

- Ici pour les photos -

Commentaires (913) Trackbacks (0)
  1. Super article ! mais c’est où MACHIN ?
    J’ai beaucoup aimé la blague sur les guides de voyage.

    La suite ! La suite !!

    Moouuahahaha !

  2. on adore vos articles , toujours passionnés et les photos vraies et belles ….
    bise

  3. Votre récit nous rappel bien des souvenirs, l’Inde ne peut laisser indifférent.Nous n’avons pas vu d’aussi près la population ,.
    Merci de nous mettre au courant de vos aventures et bon courage pour la suite
    Bisous
    Papi et mami

  4. Sacré récit, ça sent la signature de Seb. En tout cas vous avez la classe sur votre moto ! Marjo tu l’a conduit un peu ? Encore merci pour ces belles photos.

    bisous

  5. Oulaaa ça faisait longtemps que je n’avais pas visité le blog, j’en étais restée au Cambodge! Vous avez bien avancé depuis, ça fait tjs autant plaisir e vous lire. De la bière au préservatifs au goût amer pour Zeb ? Aux conservateurs vous voulez dire;) ? Héhéhé.
    Grosses bises des Pays-Bas !

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